Churches on Gotland
Gotland is home to nearly 100 medieval churches that are still in use today, alongside a dozen or so ruins in Visby. At first glance, these churches might all seem similar, but with a little knowledge, you’ll discover that each one is a treasure in its own right.
A Remarkable Collection of Medieval Churches
According to a 2009 study by Louise Borgö titled "Gotland’s Medieval Churches – Part of the World Heritage?", there are 92 medieval churches still in use on Gotland. One of these is in Visby, serving as the diocese's cathedral, while the remaining 91 are scattered across the island. In the Middle Ages, Visby had at least 12 more churches, and the countryside had at least four more, which are now ruins.
No other region in Sweden saw such intensive church-building during the Middle Ages as Gotland did. All of these churches were built before 1350, and every single one is classified as a site of national cultural interest.
Voices on the Significance of Gotland’s Churches
Art historian Carl Georg Brunius wrote in the 19th century that "Among Gotland’s numerous churches, there is hardly any that doesn’t deserve close scrutiny for its artistic value." Professor Johnny Roosvall, one of the foremost researchers on these churches, called them "a unique phenomenon in European Christianity." Gunnar Svahnström, in his 1984 guidebook Gotlands kyrkor, noted that "Such a concentration of remarkable cultural monuments is hardly found anywhere else at these northern latitudes." In 1908, English art historian T. Frances Bumpus wrote, "I know no district of Europe more fascinating to the ecclesiologist than this little sea-girt isle."
Among these, I find Garda Church to be the most beautiful. It’s one of the oldest stone churches, featuring unique 12th-century art and a preserved roof from the same century. However, there are many beautiful churches, filled with incredible art of all kinds.
Interestingly, 99% of the art, or even more, is found in the countryside, not in St. Mary’s Cathedral in Visby, which is the most visited site. The unique and innovative art is found entirely in the rural churches.
Why Were These Churches Built?
Alf Henriksson remarked that almost every parish on Gotland has what is practically a cathedral. What’s astonishing is that so few people managed to build all these churches—about 10-15 farms per church. They must have been incredibly wealthy, as each church is adorned with stonework, paintings, sculptures, stained glass, and ironwork.
Many have wondered why so many churches were built, given the exceptional density. Wherever you are on the island, you often have one or more church spires in view.
To put this in perspective, imagine Gotland had a population of about 50,000 people between the 12th and 14th centuries, and they built 100 churches. If Stockholm, Sweden's largest city today with a population of 1 million, did the same, they would need to build 2,000 churches and fill them with art.
Gotland’s Greatest Cultural Heritage
Gotland is far more than just roses, beaches, and a medieval city wall. The churches are undeniably the island’s greatest cultural heritage. Despite the fact that Danes, Swedes, archaeologists, and museum workers have taken away tons of art from these churches, much still remains. We christen children in baptismal fonts that are nearly a thousand years old, and we see stone carvings that are several hundred years older than the churches themselves. You can also find runes, graffiti, and other markings on the floors and walls, on stones, and on memorials.
In every church on Gotland, the Middle Ages are still vividly present—the sense of time has somehow been preserved, and when you visit a church, you feel close to that era.
Visiting Gotland’s Churches
You can explore Visby in a few hours, but the rural churches and massive ancient structures require more planning and time. It’s a soothing experience to soak in the quiet of the church interiors, see the medieval thoughts depicted on the walls, marvel at the stunning paintings in places like Anga and Garda, or study the reliefs like the "Thinker" in Martebo, "Medieval Punk Rocker," and the "Woman Clothed in the Sun." There’s so much to see and reflect upon.
Finally, a piece of advice: while it’s good to have some knowledge of what you’re looking at, medieval art wasn’t created just for experts. It’s enough to simply go out, explore, and enjoy what you see.
The Churches in Visby
Visby has only one medieval church still standing, St. Mary’s, while the others are more or less well-preserved ruins, which are still very beautiful. In the 1989 publication De hundra kyrkornas ö, Tore Furberg mentions that English Major Alfred Heales visited Gotland in 1884 and was so fascinated by the rural churches that he returned the following year, later writing a book titled "The churches of Gottland (other than those of Wisby)".
Furberg describes Heales' book as starting with a description of Visby during its golden age, when the city, as a trade center, outshone even London. According to Heales, the many churches in Visby, as well as the Roma Abbey Church, have counterparts in other countries, but the rural churches on Gotland are largely unique. Unlike English rural churches, which have often undergone destructive "restorations," the Gotland churches have remained largely untouched.
I wholeheartedly agree with both Major Heales and Professor Roosvall—the rural churches are indeed a unique phenomenon in European Christianity.